Creative Director/Photographer/Retoucher: Jeanne Dart
Model: Ksenia Shalaevskaya
Assistant: Varv & Eugenia
Fashion Designer: Atelier Jeanne Dart
Makeup Artist: Аnna Dykalenko
1-11: Atelier Jeanne Dart
We were inspired by the movie «The Favourite» Yorgos Lanthimos.
No one can fully appreciate what women have done for history. The Favourites, beloved of kings and dark cardinals of political backstage. They changed the history of countries and the whole world. They created and destroyed. The Favourites dictated fashion and challenged the world.
Agnes Sorel, the Mistress of Charles VII, the first woman to receive the official status of the king’s Favourite. She set the tone for court fashion. Caused anger and admiration of the whole aristocracy. It was Agnes Sorel who was the first courtier who began to wear diamonds in a palace, equating themselves to royals. The King changed the law, according to which only noble persons could wear precious stones. The Favourite created her own style and designed dresses. She was the first who fashioned a long train. Agnes wore a six-meter train, which even the queen did not allow herself. But Agnès’s main creation was blatantly bold décolletage. First, she introduces the dress, slightly holding the breasts. Then appears in public in dress, where one breast is completely covered and the other is completely bare. The ladies were terrified but seeing the admiring glances of the king and the most influential men of France, they soon followed the same extravagant style. Naked breasts have become a trend, later followers of Sorel will show the world dresses with double décolletage that will immediately expose both breasts. With this new “naked breasts” trend woman used special cosmetics – powder for neck and breasts and special lipstick for nipples.
Marquise de Montespan is the most domineering Favourite of King Louis XIV. Her “domination” at the French court lasted more than 10 years. Luxurious and cynical, this is how her contemporaries described it. Montespan influenced not only the king but also his ministers. They sought her advice and considered her opinion. Because of her love of luxury life, production and trade increased in France. She encouraged the talents of fine arts. She loved literature and been patronizing great writers and poets like Jean de La Fontaine, Moliere, and Philippe Quinault.
Another famous The Favourite of Louis XIV was Angelica de Fontange. She was one of the many beloveds of the French king Louis XIV. She had the beauty of a pure angel, enchanting everyone around. She did not have enough ambitions and greediness for power. Perhaps she did not become famous in world history of her social significance, but no doubt she changed the history of French fashion. Angelica de Fontange, created the new idea of beauty, making popular high lady hairstyle, which is known to this day as a hairstyle ” Fontange”. She also created a trend to use fake beauty spots on neck and chest. The image of sophisticated Angelica became the key in the series of novels of Anne and Serge Golon.
In the era of Louis XV, The Favourites influenced politics, culture, science, and art in France. The symbol of this era was the famous Marquise de Pompadour, Jeanne-Antoinette Poisson, who so subjugated the king that not only replaced him at receptions, briefings and political meetings, but also independently selected new mistresses for the King because of fear to lose her position. Marquise de Pompadour is the most famous Favourite of the French king Louis XV. She did not just become the beloved woman, but a powerful woman controlled the political situation in France and Europe. She appointed ministers and generals during the seven-year war. For 19 years, she patronized science and culture. She helped artists, architects, writers, and poets. She loved the Rococo style and surrounded herself with expensive pieces of art. She owned more than three hundred jewelry pieces with precious stones. She set the fashion for high hair with a roller. Artists called dresses and interior design, the famous style “à la Reine” In her honor. It is the period of the “reign” of the Marquis de Pompadour that is associated with the carefree and easy life of the French aristocracy. Despite the fact that she spent the country’s budget on her dresses and carnivals, because of Madame Pompadour we can enjoy architectural monuments such as the Petit Trianon, the Palace of Compiegne, and of course the magnificent ensembles on Louis XV Square in Paris.
The Favourite. A strong and ambitious woman who couldn’t just stay in the shadows of powerful men.
Author: Varv Hodgson
Photography Showcase – Favorite
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